How Vadim Timonov sent hard, high, and first try.
“Rocklands is a place of extraordinary beauty with its world-class boulders, alien landscapes, and indescribable atmosphere,” said Vadim Timonov. The bright orange sandstone boulders on the edge of South Africa’s Cederberg Mountains have become a mecca for bouldering with more than 2800 problems. Since 2019, Timonov has been a staple of hard climbing in Rocklands. In his four visits and around 35 days of climbing, he’s amassed a tick list of some of the hardest and highest boulders including the first ascent of G-Master (8C) to sending The Finnish Line(8C) to flashing Mirta (8B+). Pushing the grades that far required planning, physical and mental preparation, and the correct mindset for success. These attributes helped Timonov succeed.
“If you want to go to Rocklands for the first time, then plan your trip for at least two weeks, and preferably at least three. Hiking around all the sectors and finding the lines you like requires a lot of time,” said Timonov of his climbing in Rocklands. His first trip, he climbed for eight days in a row and on one day climbed nine boulders 9 boulders 8A grade and harder, including a flash of The Quintessential (8B). Before leaving, he watched all the vides he could to decide on objectives. As he’s climbed more there, he’s had to tailor his preparation a bit, first in general sense and then towards the highballs and hard problems he’s climbed.
“To prepare physically, I train very hard to be there in the best shape,” said Timonov describing his finger and power training as well as his projecting in the gym. “Mostly I just keep my motivation high for each training day.” This strategy of staying psyched for the trip has translated into him sending Monkey Wedding, his first 8c. But he’s had to be more than just psyched for the climbs in Rocklands.
“For some routes, I need to prepare mentally for a long time, since I am scared to climb that far above the ground,” Timonov said of his experience on the tall and beautiful The Finnish Line (8C). He was able to climb all the moves quickly and then sent it on toprope but bouldering it out seemed terrifying. “My first year trying it, even before the attempt began I knew that I would not climb to the top,” said Timonov. “For a year, I prepared myself for the fact that I could do this. I just needed to turn off the fear in my head and keep control. When I returned, I climbed it on the first day.”
Being able to climb intuitively helped him on the Rocklands highballs and it also translated to some very hard flashes including Mirta (8B+) and Cosmic Artifa (8B+). He carefully selected the climbs he wanted to try and flash. Before going to Rocklands, he practiced flashing problems in the gym. He also managed his expectations. “Many people think that if I can flash 8B+, then lower grades should be easy for me. But that’s not true. People who flash 8B+ can also fall on 6C and that’s ok,” said Timonov. Accepting that he could fail, even on easy climbs, allowed him to climb without pressure and perform his best, to find an equilibrium while he moved over the sandstone. “As I climbed I adjusted my body, finding the ideal balance positions and best way to hold a grip,” said Timonov.
Even with such an impressive tick list, Rocklands still has hard climbs for Timonov, including Living Large(8C/+). “The logistics of that climb are complicated,” said Timonov. “I need a crew of climbers to try it with me, otherwise, I won’t have enough pads and spotters.” Having enough foam is one of the most important parts of going to Rocklands, maybe even more important than bringing a tick list.
Rocklands Tick List
Sends
- G-Master First ascent (8C), Eland
- Parzival 3rd Ascent (8C), The Gallery
- Spray of Light (8C), Dihedral Boulders
- Petrichor (8C), Area 15
- The Finnish Line (8C), The Coop
- Noise Versus Beauty (8C), Roadside
- Black Eagle Assis (8C), Cedar Rogue
- Monkey Wedding (8C), Roadside
- Get Railed (8B+), Roadside
- Amanda (8B+), Roadcrew
- Shakey Warrior (8B+), The Section
Flash
- Mirta (8B+), Topside
- Cosmic Artifact (8B+), The Gallery
- The Guest List (8B), Eland
- The Arch (8B), The Arch
- Hipster Whale (8B), Danger Zone
- Quintessential (8B), 8 Day Rain
- Oral Office (8A+), Roadside
- Sassy Squash (8A), Eland
- Purple Nipple Clan (8A), Roadcrew
- Hellfire (7C+), Roadkill