The first time I visited Ticino was in the winter of 2012/13. The area was already famous for bouldering and I was super inspired by Dreamtime and other Fred Nicole first ascents. I’d also watched the old Dosage video of Chris Sharma and Dave Graham trying Off the Wagon back in the day. Just seeing all of that made me want to go over there.
When I finally made the trip, I remember being blown away not only by the amount of rock, but also the quality. The granite was unlike anything else I’ve climbed. It was super featured, but not too sharp. It was also not super technical, but required its own style of technique. A lot of the hard climbing ended up being on longer boulders with 15 moves or more, which was extremely fun to climb.
Photo: Roman Yalowitz
I spent that first season repeating many amazing lines and also establishing a few of my own. La Rustica was the first hard line I established here back in 2013. It opened my eyes to the bouldering potential around Bavona, which was less developed than the classic areas like Cresciano, Brione, and Chironico. I’ve returned basically every season since—it’s hard not to when there are just so many amazing lines left to do.
Developing new lines is the main reason I climb. I typically seek out big, beautiful, independent lines—the taller, the better. But I’m always looking for rad stuff, even if it’s short and steep. From searching for new lines to eventually climbing them, the entire process gives me so much satisfaction. I find it to be a therapeutic experience that fulfills what I’m looking for in my life.
I’ve been super fortunate to establish some great lines in Ticino. My all-time favorites include La Rustica (8C), The New Abnormal (8B+), and Swiss Air (8C). Yet, the potential for new boulders is what keeps me coming back year after year. It’s truly never ending in terms of rock to develop. Now that I’ve been coming here for a long time, I’m stoked to explore deeper in the valleys and higher in the mountains to find new stuff.
Photo: Roman Yalowitz
The thing I like the most about Swiss, however, isn’t the bouldering itself but the moments in between. It’s the culture and the community. My buddy Egon Bernasconi and his family live in the heart of Giumaglio, and their place has become a home away from home for me. I go there to climb a bunch, obviously, but I have so much fun eating good dinners, drinking good wine, and just chilling.
For how much of a bouldering mecca it is, it’s kind of crazy that there’s actually not so many local boulderers. The area mostly draws an international crowd, and as more and more people travel here to climb, we’ll have a larger collective impact on the locals who live and farm in the valleys.
If you’re planning a trip, especially to Bavona, be respectful of the landowners. Most of the climbing is pretty roadside, but there is a lot of private land back there so be mindful of where you park and how you access boulders. Walk around fences and gates instead of cutting across fields that are used for cattle or crops. If we’re good stewards, we’ll maintain positive relationships for many years to come.
Photo: Roman Yalowitz
You don’t need to be a super strong climber to enjoy bouldering in Ticino, either. Egon and a crew of dedicated locals have been working hard to clean and open new boulders of all grades in the Prenzo Sector, which is located just next to the town of Giumaglio. The access is super easy and it’s a perfect spot for families. This year at the DAG ADOSS event they’ll be presenting a new guidebook for the area to facilitate access for everyone.
The classic zones like Brione, Chironico, and Cresciano all have a slew of really good moderates, too. And while Bavona is known for its hard climbing—I would say the majority is 8B and above—there’s a ton of easier stuff to be developed. You could go there as a 7A climber and develop amazing highballs all day.
There are loads of amazing lines still sitting out there right now.